Was - Is - Will

Scott on the shores of Caesarea

 Caesarea by the sea is a wondrous port - a large artificial inlet created by Herod the Great. Scott tells us that from this harbour ships sailed, not only dispersing trade, but delivering good news to the Gentiles - a practical taking-off point of our redemption. As I re-read Scriptures of the apostle Paul sailing to so many places, including this very port, I wonder if perhaps his "thorn in the flesh" may have been sea-sickness! It would make sense!

Private concert!

In the nearby 5000-seat theatre where, with great pomp, King Agrippa, Queen Bernice and Governor Festus listened to Paul (Acts 24), Yossi plays his simple flute, notes wafting on warm sea air, delighting fellow-traveller Vincent. But we can't pause long; we drive on to another of Herod's wonders:

Ancient Aquaduct

The Aquaduct - built 11 miles long; now a memory. Running along the salt-sea coast like an overland pipe, it carried fresh water - which becomes a theme for the day. We are still here when the final Memorial Day siren sounds; we wait, and a memory of where we were for those two unique minutes is etched upon us.

The Valley of Armageddon

From the sea to the mountain; and from Mount Carmel we look down at the Valley of Armageddon when Yossi asks, and answers himself: "The name of God - what is it? In fact, simply three letters," and he whizzes off a pronunciation that sounds different to any way we would say those three letters, no matter what vowels are attached. "What does it mean? Simply this: Was-Is-Will."

He says it so fast I have to pause over the three one-syllable words. At first I don't understand them. Did he say, "What's His Will?" Then I comprehend. Was. Is. Will. Y-W-H. The three-fold name of God. The eternal Presence. So often I limit my contemplation of God to, "what's His will?" God is so much more! ... And yet - through the day I realize that "what's His will?" is probably my best response to that abundant "more".

Memorial to Elijah

The Valley spreads out below green Mount Carmel. We hear the Elijah story of darting heavenly fire as we sit before the huge stone-slab altar, resting heavily on 12 large stones. In the courtyard, a towering statue depicts Elijah, sword in hand, slaying false prophets. "It was always a bloody valley," says Yossi.

Below is also the Kidron River, where Elijah hid and was fed by ravens; where Deborah led her people from under a tree. Yossi proves his earlier point - we can hardly name "the most famous valley" in our part of the globe, but we know this one, and can name the small river running through it!

"Fresh water is a big deal here," says Yossi, and takes us in the direction of the biggest source: the Sea of Galilee.  "Here we have it - living water - physically and metaphorically" he says. But before the sea, we go to another water source, a well, hidden now in the depths of a church, where Mary heard an angel say she would bear the life-giving Son of God.

Stained Glass

Pillar of the Church

In the courtyard of the Church of Annunciation we read aloud the story of Mary receiving the news that she would have a Child, and then go inside - not to a delicate filigree of stained glass picture-book "Mary" sweetness, but to Brutal architecture - solid, strong, enduring.

Shards of glass converge in windows, creating a jagged, stunning kaleidoscope effect. Deep under the powerful pillars, each with multiple, repeated, pounded, nail-like indentations, is a small cave - the heart of it, where (we are told) Mary met the angel. We quietly stand, pondering "Be it unto me according to Your will." From that hidden heart comes the enormous fortitude of the magnificent church above; a parallel with Mary's own powerful heart and life. We slip out in gratitude.

Mill-stone crushes olives

On to "Nazareth Village" - a reconstruction that takes us to that world as we've always imagined it - the town of 300 where Jesus was raised, so different to the burgeoning city of 75,000 that it has become! To begin, we enter a "Gethsemane" - meaning "Press Oil." It's really a large workshop. We stand under cooling white arches and see this functioning equipment: the huge millstone, as tall as a child of 6, that crushes olives into mashed pulp. Baskets wait, woven and shaped to receive the crushed pulp, with a central hole for extracted oil to later escape from.

A "Gethsemane" - olive oil press

We move to the sturdy wooden mechanism with its three 500 lb weights that are lowered, one by one, to further crush the pulp and extract the oil in three long, slow, "presses". We hear the link to Jesus' three agonizing prayers in the Garden of Gethsemane, "Not my will, Not my will, Not my will" - that led to the extraction of the purest of oils - the oil of forgiveness, the oil of healing, the oil of light. Jesus' life seems to have been framed by that prayer, beginning with Mary's "As You will," and ending here. We learn that the final pulp, once all the oil is poured out, is used for kindling. Nothing is wasted. And so with the body of our Lord, whose resurrection lit a fire in our souls.

Carpenter drilling holes

Spinning wool - note her simple dyes

Going on, we encounter the Carpenter brother. His work is arduous; planing wood without a metal blade is almost like scratching a rock. We see a yoke he's constructed and observe a clever drill system, using rope, like a child's spinning top! In the next room, fragrant dried herbs scent the sunlit air. Through a door sits the Sister, spinning wool. She greets us, her face a little twisted, her hands unceasingly busy. Thick chunks of sheep's wool, teased out and gathered in, become a coarse yarn that she weaves, slowly, by hand. Some of the yarn is dyed - with saffron, herbs, or, for the wealthy, snail's oil. It would take 1000 snails, each yielding one drop of deep purple oil when crushed, to dye two pounds of wool. (Crushing also seems to be a theme of the day!) Someone jokes that maybe snails were the flowers of the ancient world: - if a fisherman came home bringing a bunch of snails - what a welcome he'd get!

Synagogue pillars, scroll & lamps

We sit in the synagogue among white pillars, perhaps like the synagogue Jesus sat in, saying, "Today the Scripture is fulfilled in your ears." I look around and think, every ear would have been visible to Him! The space is beautifully proportioned, but compact! Synagogues had four purposes: town gathering place; school for boys; courtroom; and Sabbath meeting place. You'd want to come to this cool quiet after a hot week! It feels like rest, like sanctuary; unadorned, with stone tiers on all four sides for seating. Across from the door on a wooden bench rests a scroll, waiting to be read. Without a word, we receive its message, "Come to Me, all who are weary and heavy laden, and I will give you rest." Rest from the endless spinning, the tedious drilling, the rough walking that makes up your daily life. Rest for your souls. We receive, and are filled.

A wedding in Cana! 

50th Wedding Anniversary!

Cana's next - and a young wedding is happening! In a smaller, side chapel we celebrate a greater achievement - Dean and Sylvia's 50th anniversary. We thank God for His ongoing provision, as displayed in the miracle Jesus performed there, and pray for all marriages in our midst. Then it's on to wine tasting - sweet and rich! Jesus must have been near!

After supper we walk to the waterfront, just outside our hotel in Tiberius. The Sea of Galilee may be a place of living water, but at night, especially on Independence night, it's a lively party scene! Along with gelato and American burgers (you don't get a Big Mac - you get a "Texas Burger!") - are children dancing. Following the music we see them on stage, just like at the Calgary Stampede, making their parents proud! It's a massive family affair, this Independence Day. We stand apart; then plunge into the crowd to observe!

At the celebration

Along the waterfront

Little ones shoot bubbles - a sweet, happy prelude to their eventual service in the Israeli army, packing live guns from age 18-22. High-spirited youth spray each other with white foam, dashing helter-skelter through the maze of people, chortling with laughter! Many parents have weary faces, but there they are, encouraging the next generation to enjoy, to belong, to build this young nation.  When the kids are done dancing it's time for a political speech and cheering; then, as the last rapid-fire Hebrew word closes, fireworks light up the Tiberean night sky. A Dora balloon floats to heaven over the flares, like a young dancer's dream, rising to meet the stars.

We go home; the music picks up a new pace, and all night long, revelry continues along the beachfront. Humanity is the same all over the world. Joys, sadness, friendship, heartache, hope and fear, day by day by year. No wonder we look for the enduring rest that is a unique gift of the eternal Was-Is-Will.

On a wedding bench in Cana!